NOTE: It is important to make all the edges, inside and out, as smooth and neat as possible. The lower lip of this hole should be 1.75 cm from the end of the sleeve (see picture below). Use the small file to shape this round hole into a neat rectangle about 1/4" (0.65 cm) long and 5/16" (7.5 mm) wide.This dent will be the center point for the fipple hole. Use the punch to create a dent on this line.Measure up 2.45 cm from the free end of the sleeve and scratch a line with the punch.Use the punch to make a dent in each side of the sleeve to secure it to the pipe.Slide the sleeve onto the 3.5-cm length of pipe.Then smooth both ends of pipe using first the wide flat file and then sand paper. Deburr the ends of the pipes (use pipe cutter tool).Cut a second piece of pipe 26 cm long.NOTE: the sharp ends of the cut pipe can slice your fingers, so caution is advised. Measure and cut off a 3.5-cm length of pipe.I often make more fipples than I need, and end up throwing out some of them because I'm not happy with their sound. NOTE: The fipple is the hardest part of the pennywhistle to make. However, I believe the amount of copper you ingest from playing a finished whistle is minimal (please let me know me if I'm wrong!). You probably don't want to swallow it either. I have found that fine copper dust dust or powder irritates my throat and lungs. ![]() Whenever I file, sand, or polish copper, I wear a dust mask.My tools are all sized in "English" units, but I prefer to use metric units for all my distance measurements because it is easier to scale them up or down to build whistles in different keys. ![]() I sincerely apologize for my "unitary schizophrenia" (there's an oxymoron!).1/2" pipe, but all the other dimensions will probably change a bit. You might be able to use metric-sized copper pipe instead of standard U.S."Front" refers to the side of the whistle with the fipple and finger holes. "Down" refers to the end closest to your feet. In these instructions, "up" refers to the end of the whistle or fipple closest to your mouth (while you are playing).Two-part epoxy resin (having the consistency of honey, safe for putting in your mouth when dry).(Get 9/16" dowel instead, if you can find it). 5/8" Hardwood doweling: a 12-inch length is plenty.Copper connector (sleeve) used to join two lengths of 1/2" copper pipe (use the kind of connector that has a "stop" hammered into middle of the connector my measurements take this into account).You only need 12-inches (30 cm) for a whistle, but you might want to buy two or three times this much, just in case. 1/2" copper plumbing pipe (Type M in the U.S.).Optional but recommended: Pipe cutter (an inexpensive hand tool that gives a nice, straight end to the pipe).Optional but recommended: Table vice (handy for holding the pipe-be sure to add padding to the metal grips so you don't scratch the copper).You can try to tune the whistle to another wind instrument, but I don't recommend it because you can't play both instruments at once to hear the beats when notes are out of tune. Chromatic electronic tuner or (for those with a good ear) electric keyboard.Steel bar with flat end about 1/4" (6-7 mm) square.Sharp metal punch for setting holes for drilling (a large pointed steel screw or bolt will also work).Flat-bladed screwdriver with blade about 1/4" (6-7 mm) wide.Rat-tail (cylindrical) file about 1/4" (6-7 mm) diameter.Large flat-sided metal file about 1 1/4" (3 cm) wide.Small flat or triangular file less than 1/4" (6-7 mm) wide. ![]()
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